Natural Hair Movement: From Activism to Industry Transformation

Natural Hair Movement: How Black Women Transformed the Beauty Industry

“I am not my hair. I am not this skin. I am not your expectations.”

India Arie’s lyrics describe the struggle to have “good” hair—a struggle Black women in America know all too well. These words call to mind pressing and curling, the sting of relaxer, and strands snapping from years of intense heat and harsh products.

And when India sings, “18 and I went all natural,” she speaks to the transformative moment of realizing her hair connected her to her history, culture, and identity. This echoes the natural hair movement that began during the civil rights era and went through many changes in the decades that followed.

In this article, we’ll explore the history of the natural hair movement and look into its future. We’ll also talk about natural hair care techniques and Black-owned hair care brands stylists can use to bring more inclusive, knowledgeable care to their salons. 

The History of the Natural Hair Movement

For much of the 20th century, straight strands and waves were viewed as the baselines for great hair. Achieving the right look meant hot combs heated on stovetops and regular pressings, plus harsh chemical relaxers strong enough to permanently straighten strands. The process was often painful and expensive, but for many Black women, that's simply what it took to be accepted within a society that put Eurocentric beauty standards on a pedestal.

During the ’60s, natural hair became part of a larger political language. Activists like Angela Davis and Kathleen Cleaver famously wore plump afros, while pointing out that straightened hair was viewed as beautiful because of its proximity to whiteness. Natural hair textures carried new meaning, representing pride and visibility centered firmly in Black identity. 

From the civil rights era to more recent movements like Black Lives Matter, the dynamics between hair and race have gone through many transitions. The ’80s and ’90s saw the return of relaxers and the Jheri curl boom, while turmoil in the early 2000s reignited conversations around Blackness and natural hair. 

The period between the 2010s and the present has been a complex mix—mainstream acceptance of natural textures (“Don’t touch my crown,” as Solange Knowles sang) led to legal protections from hair discrimination via the 2019 CROWN Act, as well as a multi-billion-dollar industry built around wigs, weaves, and extensions. We now know that hair should be rooted in personal choice and expression, whether that means good lace or a voluminous Afro. 

Natural Hair Care Fundamentals

Understanding the unique structure of natural Black hair is the first step toward offering more inclusive beauty services.

What Makes Textured Hair Different

Textured hair curls and coils, which makes it more difficult for natural oils to travel down the strands. That means coily hair is more prone to dryness and breakage without regular moisturizing. 

But not all Black hair dries or moisturizes the same way, since porosity determines how hair holds onto moisture. Low-porosity hair resists water and needs time or warmth to hydrate, while high-porosity hair drinks in moisturizer but struggles to hold onto it, requiring heavier creams and sealants. Hair density, or how much hair grows from the scalp and how thick or thin individual strands are, also impacts care.

Traditional cosmetology often fails natural hair because it focuses on curl pattern types. While texture sets a baseline for hair care, porosity and density determine how moisturizing actually works. When hair care professionals overlook the bigger picture, hair can be over-heated or under-moisturized, leading to breakage and dryness. 

The "Big Chop" and Transitioning

Some Black women choose to do a “big chop,” where they cut off all their chemically processed hair to start from scratch with new natural strands. This is a quick way to switch from relaxed to natural hair, and it can give women an immediate sense of liberation. But this option isn’t for everyone—the big chop requires serious maintenance and lots of patience, since the hair needs regular trimming to keep its shape.

It’s also possible to take a gradual approach, trimming ends over several months. In the meantime, clients can use protective hairstyles like braids, twists, weaves, wigs, and headwraps to avoid daily manipulation or cover up texture differences.

There are also plenty of heatless blending methods, like bantu knots, twist-outs, and rod sets, that help natural roots and relaxed ends look more cohesive. The whole process often takes several months or longer and requires some patience, especially where two textures meet and become more prone to breakage. 

Essential Natural Hair Care Principles

Whatever transition method a client chooses, consistent deep conditioning, moisturizing, and gentle handling keep new growth healthy throughout the process. Success relies on:

• Using products that maintain moisture-protein balance

• Limiting daily manipulation and heat

• Choosing protective styles that reduce stress on strands

• Following a simple wash routine that cleanses and deep conditions

Curl Pattern Types: Understanding Hair Texture Classification

Black hair tends to fall into two curl pattern types. Knowing which one you‘re working with helps you select the right products and natural hairstyle techniques.

These pattern types are:

• Type 3 (curly hair): From loose curls (3A) to tight corkscrews (3C), this pattern requires high moisture and regular deep conditioning, plus gentle washing with sulfate-free shampoo two or three times per week. 

• Type 4 (coily hair): Ranging from bouncy coils (4A) to tiger z-shapes (4B and 4C), this type of pattern requires deep conditioning every week or two and oils or creams to seal in moisture. Plus, bonnets are important for nightly protection.

Essential Textured Hair Products for Your Salon

Caring for natural, textured hair starts with the right products. These include:

• Cleansing and conditioning: Sulfate-free shampoos, co-washing conditioning cleansers, deep conditioners, and leave-in conditioners gently cleanse and hydrate without stripping natural moisture.

• Treatment: Moisturizing treatments rehydrate and improve elasticity, while protein treatments strengthen weak or overworked strands. 

• Product styling: Creams and butters hydrate and define curls and coils. Gels and mousses give those curls shape and hold, while edge control smooths and styles hairlines. 

• Heat styling: Heat protectants, including sprays, lotions, serums, and oils, create barriers between hair and heat tools. They help you reduce protein breakdown that causes drying and damage. 

Innovative Black-Owned Hair Care Brands

Naturally, a lot of the products that protect textured hair came from Black entrepreneurs and businesses. Supporting them means putting money behind expertise and lived experiences, and using products designed to enhance natural Black hair. 

1. Eden BodyWorks

Eden BodyWorks was founded by Jasmine Lawrence, who started making her own hair remedies after a chemical burn at age 11. When she realized how few natural, effective options were available to restore hair, she began formulating in her own kitchen. Her personal solution blossomed into a hair care brand with dozens of products, including cleansing co-washes, creams, and shampoos. 

2. Mixed Chicks

Wendi Levy and Kim Etheredge bonded over the challenge of caring for hair that didn’t quite fit into curly or straight product categories. Tired of mixing formulas together, they developed their own line to meet the needs of multi-textured hair. What started as a personal solution shared with friends grew into Mixed Chicks, which offers a large line of products for men and women.

3. Luster’s Products

Luster’s Pink Lotion is an iconic oil moisturizer that's been a staple in Black barbershops and bathrooms since the ’50s. Now in its third generation of family ownership, Luster Products produces more than one hundred products for textured hair. While today they focus on styling products and shampoos, their moisturizing products are legacy staples for many Black communities. 

The Future of the Natural Hair Movement

California was the first state to pass hair discrimination legislation with the 2019 CROWN Act, but 29 states and more than 50 cities have followed suit, providing protections in schools and workplaces for those who prefer natural hairstyles. Hair discrimination goes beyond beauty standards, shaping access and opportunity in everything from job prospects to Olympic performances. 

The CROWN Act now functions as a coalition effort, supported by advocacy organizations, community leaders, and policymakers working to expand protections nationwide. Its long-term goal is federal legislation that would make hair discrimination protections consistent across the U.S.

Bring the Natural Hair Movement Into Your Salon

What began as a political and cultural statement has expanded into a global beauty force. The natural hair movement grew from a few defiant individuals to Black-owned businesses, specialized salon treatments, and national legislation. Today, natural hair stands at the intersection of personal identity, culture, innovation, and the industry as a whole. 

For beauty professionals, the evolution of natural hair comes with both responsibility and opportunity. Serving textured hair well means staying educated and expanding your techniques, so you can create experiences that reflect the unique needs of everyone who walks through your doors. 

Explore Boulevard’s guides to build more thoughtful consultations and inclusive client care.